Olivier Bernstein - Mazis-Chambertin 2014

A racy thoroughbred, this red evokes pure cherry, raspberry, tobacco, iron and spice aromas and flavors, allied to a firm, tensile structure that drives the long, saturated fruit and spice aftertaste. Needs time, but all the elements are there.

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, licorice, menthol and sexy oak. Savory and deep, conveying a juicy quality and spicy high notes to the flavors of purple berries and flowers. This energetic wine finishes very long, with substantial fine-grained tannins and intense notes of blackberry and boysenberry. Showing little in the way of animal character today as the fruit dominates.

Olivier Bernstein’s seven grands crus and three premiers crus have a wealth of old vines, which are fundamental to the quality of his wines. All Bernstein vineyard plots, save one, are at least 40 years old; most are between 60 and 80 years old. While officially acting with négociant status, Olivier and his team take responsibility for the vineyard work on their plots. “Viticulture is the very basis of everything. To get grapes of excellent quality and perfect health, the work in the vineyard is absolutely fundamental — and unstinting. It is impossible to make a great wine without a great grape,” explains Olivier.

 Generous wood fights a bit with the otherwise brooding and reserved nose that is classic Mazis with its intense sauvage character that adds distinction to the dark currant earth, floral and humus scents. There is exceptionally good richness and power to the concentrated and palate staining flavors that deliver superb length on the balanced finish. I very much like the way the intensity builds on the mid-palate back to the explosive finish that really fans out. In a word, impressive.